Woven Label Fold Guide: End, Center, Miter and Loop Folds
Short answer: The fold decides how a woven label sews into the garment and how its edges feel. End fold suits neck labels, center (loop) fold suits side seams and hem tabs, miter fold suits sleeve and hem branding, and straight cut suits fully sewn-down labels. Specify the finished size and the fold — the factory calculates the cut size.
Why the fold is a real decision
A woven label leaves the loom as a flat strip. The fold turns that strip into a sewable component: it hides cut edges, creates sewing allowances and decides which edges touch skin. Two labels with identical artwork but different folds behave differently on the sewing line and feel different in the collar — which is why the fold belongs in the RFQ, not as an afterthought.
The six folds at a glance
| Fold | What it is | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cut | Flat label, no fold; edges heat-sealed | Labels sewn down on all sides: outerwear, bags, packaging |
| End fold | Left and right ends folded behind | Neck labels sewn top and bottom — the classic brand label |
| Center / loop fold | Folded in half to form a loop | Side seams, hem tabs, small flag labels showing both sides |
| Miter fold | Ends folded up at an angle | Sleeve and hem placement where the label hangs from one seam |
| Manhattan fold | Top folded over, ends folded back | Neck labels that hide all raw edges behind the label face |
| Book fold | Folded like a booklet at the top | Combining brand face with size or care data inside |
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Get a QuoteChoosing by garment position
- Neck / collar — end fold or Manhattan fold; the folded ends give the sewing machine clean anchor points.
- Side seam — center fold, caught in the seam as a small flag; both faces are visible, so plan front and back artwork.
- Hem and sleeve — miter fold or center fold, depending on whether the label hangs or lies flat.
- Bags, hats and hard goods — straight cut, sewn or bonded on all edges.
Finished size vs cut size
Always specify the finished size — the visible label after folding — plus the fold type. The factory adds the fold allowance to calculate the cut size. A 60 x 15 mm end-fold neck label is woven wider than 60 mm; if you specify cut size by mistake, the visible label comes out smaller than the design. When in doubt, say "finished size" explicitly in the RFQ and check the proof drawing.
FAQ
Which fold is standard for neck labels?
End fold is the most common: the folded ends hide raw edges and give clean sew lines top and bottom. Manhattan fold is the step up when all edges must disappear.
What is a center fold label used for?
Side seams and hem tabs. The label is folded into a loop and caught in the seam, showing a small flag with two printable faces.
Do different folds cost differently?
Folding is a production step, so the difference exists but is modest; the quote states the price per construction so you can compare directly.
Should I send finished size or cut size?
Finished size. The factory calculates the cut size from the fold type, and the proof drawing shows both before production.
Related reading: Custom woven labels · Custom care labels · How to order
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